A restaurant with an altruistic mission shows responsible work practices and brilliant dining can be compatible, writes Simon Wilkinson.
Covid-induced changes in mindset don't come much bigger than that of Brendan Wessels. Little more than a year ago, he was pushing meringue mix into a 3D printer and serving sherbet to suck through a fake hundred-dollar bill at the attention-seeking d'Arenberg Cube.
Now he is head chef and chief mentor of Aurora, a restaurant based on an altruistic vision of being nothing less than a circuit-breaker for the industry, a place where ego, prestige and unrealistic expectations are set aside and that the work/life balance can be fair and sustainable. He couldn't be happier and, my goodness, doesn't it show.